Louis Moreau farms 52 acres in the villages of Beines and Chablis, most of his parcels on sandy clay. He ferments this wine in stainless steel without added yeasts, then ages it on the fine lees. In 2018, he achieved a wine of almost tropical fruit ripeness, with the structure, layers of flavor and leesy complexity of a fine Chablis. If you put your expectations aside and just take this, heads up, as a white wine, you might imagine its pineapple and lime, together with its monolithic minerality, as part of a new world order, with Chablis holding its own in the midst of a warming climate. Best Buy. W&S 91 pts.